Showing posts with label problem. Show all posts
Showing posts with label problem. Show all posts

April 11, 2012

Monitor No Display - How To repair Likom No High Voltage problem

The complaint for this Likom 15" L4031Ndg Monitor was no display and has power. Well, no display can be no high voltage, failure in G1, G2 and heater circuit, defective flyback transformer, failure in photograph tube and microprocessor or many other reasons . In order to find out the rejoinder we have to switch on the Monitor. Upon switching on the monitor, I could not hear any sound from the monitor but the power led is on (green light). You can't feel any static at the glass of the photograph tube. This could be a sign of no high voltage symptom.

Anyhow, I have to use my meticulous Kaise Sk9000 high voltage probe to check if the high voltage gift at the anode. Sometimes if you can't feel the static at the glass of Crt, doesn't mean that the high voltage is not present. It's only low in high voltage; say may be 10 to 12 kilovolts. Low high voltage and no high voltage are totally two separate symptoms. In the above case, my high voltage probe registered zero volts! So it's confirmed no high voltage problem.

There are many reasons for no high voltage problem. A missing B+ voltage, a defective flyback transformer, no horizontal drive pulse from h/v oscillator ic, low or missing supply voltage to horizontal driver transformer and etc could cause no high voltage. The first point that I have checked was the flyback internal capacitor-the capacitance is within the normal range which is 2.7 nanofarad. If the internal capacitor is shorted, it would cause no high voltage. The second point that I have checked to be okay was the B+ voltage. It showed about 50 + volts and this mean there is supply entering the B+ pin of flyback transformer.




When checking the third point (the voltage at the former winding of horizontal flyback transformer), I found that it has zero volt which is very unusual. The base drive power supply input has about 14 volts but after the resistor it showed zero volts (by right it should have about 12 volt-voltage drop after the resistor). When I settled my finger on the base drive power resistor just after switching off the Monitor, I could felt it was very hot. Now this is what we call a clue. A good working base drive power resistor won't get hot till it burns your finger! There must be something that has gone wrong or shorted that makes the power resistor turned extremely hot. From the follow we get, we can say that the horizontal drive circuit is having question so my concentration is on this circuit.

A shorted horizontal driver transformer former winding, horizontal driver transistor, components surrounding this circuit could cause the power resistor to turn hot. The horizontal driver transformer former winding can be check by using a dick smith flyback tester while the horizontal driver transistor and surrounding components can be test with a normal multimeter. The result, surprisingly not even one component in this circuit found to be faulty.

Since I could not uncover the defective components, the only way to find out the culprit is to come out with my own schematic drawing base on this monitor circuit (using monitor circuit system to solve problem).

When the monitor is turned on the h/v oscillator tda4858 will receive a supply voltage about 9-12 volts from power supply. Then it will send a square wave pulse to horizontal driver transistor straight through pin 7 (horizontal driver output) to cause the transistor to switch. Once the horizontal driver is switching the horizontal driver transformer would work and a base signal was produced to turn on the Horizontal production transistor (Hot). This Hot would then drive the flyback transformer and 24 kilovolt would appear at the anode.

I asked myself what if the h/v oscillator ic tda4858 instead of producing a square pulse, it yield a constant signal? If it sends out a constant 5 volts signal to the horizontal driver transistor, then this transistor would not switch and causing it to turn "on" all the time. If this happen, the base drive power resistor and the horizontal driver transformer former winding would suffer. The base drive power resistor and the horizontal driver transformer former winding now would acts just like a filament or a lamp!. No meander the base drive power resistor was getting hot when the monitor was turned on.

After determined studied the horizontal drive circuit, I've made the windup that it was the h/v oscillator tda4848 that sends a wrong signal causing the base drive power resistor to get hot and at the same time causing no high voltage in the monitor. I did not use an oscilloscope to check for the square wave in order to prove my system right because I'm very unavoidable that it was the h/v oscillator Ic that production a wrong signal that caused no high voltage.

You would not believe this; yes it was this culprit (Tda4858) that caused the monitor no display problem. After replacing the Ic, the high voltage immediately energized and the zero volts measured at the pin of horizontal driver transformer now showed 12 volts! What a relieved and a great delight in my heart. I believe if we continue to switch on the Monitor for a longer period, either the base drive power resistor or the horizontal driver transformer former winding would burnt out causing it to open circuit.

Repairing Monitors need patience, comprehension how Monitor work and its signal and also the right way to test electronic components. If the practical way can't solve a problem, you can always use the system way to help you out. Thus it is leading to know on how to read a monitor schematic diagram. Don't give up and continue to learn and I believe one day you shall achieved what's desired in your heart! Have a good day!

Monitor No Display - How To repair Likom No High Voltage problem

HTC Evo 3D Battery

December 18, 2011

Rv Tip: Troubleshooting a 12-volt Dc problem

If you enjoy Rvs you already know that a major part of the fun with Rving is getting away from everything. You can just pack up the Rv and head out to get some well deserved rest and free time without having to deal with the hassles of day-to-day living. These restful, relaxing, memory development Rv trips should not be jeopardized by something as straightforward as a 12-volt electrical question ruining your vacation.

If you've been Rving for any estimate of time you are already aware that a good part of the devices and accessories in your Rv control off of 12-volt Dc power. 12-volt Dc or Direct Current is electricity supplied by the Rv batteries. Dc electricity flows in one direction, from negative to positive. 12-Vdc electricity is stored in the Rv batteries and supplies power for components, devices and appliances that control off of 12-volts.

High Voltage Power Supply

These 12-volt devices include overhead lights, the water pump, vent fans, furnace fan, range hood fan, Lp gas leak detectors, stereos, 12-volt Tvs and the refrigerator when it's operating in the Lp gas mode. When you go camping you rely on these 12-volt items to control properly, especially if you're dry camping without hook-ups. So what do you do when one of these 12-volt items quit working?

For the sake of an example let's say that we are dry camping and our 12-volt water pump quits working.

I am convinced that just about anybody is capable of troubleshooting a 12-Vdc problem, and in many cases repairing the question without it ruining your camping trip. For starters you will need a integrate of straightforward tools to assist you in troubleshooting your Rv's 12-volt electrical system.

1). An inexpensive 12-volt test light.

2). A multi-meter that can test for Dc power.

Both of these are available at local auto parts stores. You should also keep some electrical tape, various size wire nuts, 12-volt light bulbs and 12-volt fuses on hand. Check the amperage of the fuses used in the power distribution box and keep an assortment. If you're aware of any inline fuses used on any of the 12-volt devices keep these on hand too.

Now, try to resolve the last time the water pump nothing else but worked. Did you leave the Rv for a duration of time with the pump on? Is there water in the fresh water holding tank? Were you working on or colse to something else that could have affected the performance of the water pump? Try to think of all potential scenarios. Something might jar your memory resulting in a quick fix to the problem.

If not, the first step is to verify that the coach battery or batteries are expensed adequate to supply power to these 12-volt items. There are a integrate of ways to achieve a quick test on the coach batteries. You can use the monitor panel to check the health of the coach batteries. To get an literal, reading make sure the Rv is not plugged into electricity and turn on a integrate of overhead lights to place a small load on the battery. Check the reading at the monitor panel. (If you check the reading at the monitor panel when the Rv is plugged in to electricity it will give you fully expensed reading) A more literal, recipe is to test the battery with a multi-meter. Set the meter to read 12-Vdc and place the negative test probe on the negative battery concluding and the clear test probe on the clear battery terminal. A fully expensed battery will read in the range of 12.6 to 12.7 volts. If it reads less than 12-volts it is below a 50% state of payment and will need to be charged.

If the battery is fully charged, the next step is to make sure that any battery disconnect switch for the coach battery is turned on. If the battery disconnect switch is on, verify that other 12-volt devices in the Rv are operating properly. If there is 12-volt power to the interior of the Rv you need to check the fuse for the water pump in the power distribution center. resolve which fuse is for the water pump (fuses are normally labeled) and find a suitable ground for the 12-volt test light. Test both sides of the fuse for 12-volt power. If the test light only lights on one side of the fuse replace it with the permissible size fuse and try the water pump again. If there was power at both sides of the fuse check for 12-volts at the water pump switch. If there is voltage, and the switch is operating properly check the water pump wiring for an inline fuse.

Find a good ground for the 12-volt test light and probe the wire on both sides of the fuse. If there is only power on one side of the fuse replace it with the permissible size fuse and test the pump again. If there is power on both sides of the fuse check the water pump wiring connections at the wire nuts. It's potential for connections to come loose due to inordinate vibration. literal, any loose connections and try the pump again. If the pump still doesn't work feel the motor to see if it is hot to the touch. If the motor is hot, a thermal breaker may have been triggered. Allow the pump time to cool off and see if it re-sets itself.

If you perfect all of these tests and there is 12-volt Dc power advent to the water pump motor, and it still doesn't come on, chances are the water pump is bad and it will need to be replaced.

Troubleshooting a 12-volt electrical question in your Rv is not that difficult. Supervene the logical path of the gismo you are troubleshooting and see if you can resolve where the question is. It might be potential for you to save your well deserved vacation, some money and a trip to the Rv dealership too.

Note: If you don't feel comfortable performing your own maintenance or troubleshooting the 12-volt electrical system, take your Rv to a reputable fix town to have it checked out and repaired

Happy Camping!

Copyright 2006 by Mark J. Polk owner of Rv education 101

Rv Tip: Troubleshooting a 12-volt Dc problem

AS Roma Highlight Goals High Pressure Sensor